She Loves Surf!

My wonderful mother-in-law came to my rescue this week when I needed someone to watch the boys while I attended a work conference. Not only did she help me out for the conference, but she wanted to keep the boys for 2! nights. I had time to do whatever I wanted for a full 24 hours after my work duties were completed. Since I always have a mental list of several house projects I need/want to work on, I decided to jump into one of those projects, finally dialing in my older son’s bedroom. After a very hot afternoon of running around the house, unpacking some boxes and organizing Gavin’s bedroom I couldn’t think of anything better than to jump in the water for a surf. I checked the report and sadly read that conditions were poor and the surf was tiny. Despite the sad state of the local surf, I grabbed my fish and hopped in the Eurovan. I planned to just jump in for a bit, then spend some time on the beach stretching and maybe go for a sandy run. When I reached Pipes the report was confirmed- it was windy and small. I ran down the hill and into the water, cool for the first time that day even though the water was a balmy 71 degrees. The crowd was mellow, comprised of a few guys my age and some high school boys throwing a tennis ball while riding long boards. I caught my first wave. It was tiny, but fun! Then I caught another, and the guys in the lineup started to give me some space. I kept thinking that I should get out and go for a run, but the little waves continued to roll in, and I continued to catch some playful and fun rides. Before I knew it I spotted my husband at the top of the cliff, shaking his head at me and smiling. He was watching my fun little session, and laughing because it was almost dark. My little surf turned into a super fun evening, riding fun little waves and having simple conversations with fellow ocean lovers. One twenty-something longboarder described the day perfectly, so I’ll steal his line. He said, “It’s one of those  days where the surf is SO BAD, but SO FUN”. He couldn’t have described it better, and my stoke from that fun still shines on. Oftentimes the best stoke comes when you least expect it. Happy small wave surfing everyone!